Shopping, service, and seasonal notes in one place.

This course is already built around them. Peak summer heirlooms need almost nothing — the nam jim does the work. Mix varieties: Cherokee Purple for depth, Sun Gold for sweetness, Green Zebra for acid. The more colors on the plate the better.

Blister 4–5 shishitos per person in the same grill pan after the tsukune. Finish with a drop of the padaek tare and a pinch of salt. They sit alongside the skewers and add a charred vegetal note that the course is missing. One in ten shishitos is hot — tell guests, it becomes a game.

As a garnish on C2: thin slices of white peach alongside the tomatoes, dressed in the same nam jim. The floral sweetness plays against the sharp dressing beautifully. As a standalone amuse before C1: a single slice of peach with a drop of nam jim and a shiso leaf — sets the Lao acid-fruit tone for the whole menu.

Grilled corn cut off the cob, dressed with fish sauce, lime, chili, and toasted rice powder — essentially an elote but with a Lao dressing instead of mayo. Serve in a small cup before C1 as a standing amuse, or pile alongside the tsukune skewers on C3. The sweetness of summer corn with khao khua is a natural pairing.

Thinly julienned green mango adds a sharp, crunchy, fruity element. On C1: a few strands alongside the shrimp and nectarine add a sharp, crunchy counterpoint. On C4: tucked into the somen bowl alongside the cucumber julienne. Green mango is already in the Lao pantry DNA — it fits without explanation.

Shiso bolts in late summer and produces small purple flower clusters. They are edible, taste like a delicate version of the leaf, and are visually stunning — tiny purple flowers on a dark plate. Use as the top garnish on C1, C2, or C3. If your farmers market has them, buy them all.

Fresh yuzu zest over the sliced steak gives the course a sharper citrus lift without turning it into a sauced beef dish. A few drops of fresh yuzu juice stirred into the jeow som will brighten the whole plate while still keeping the steak, eggplant purée, and wasabi in balance. Rare, but worth seeking from specialty Japanese grocers in summer.

Halved fresh lychees with a drop of nam jim and torn shiso as a tiny standalone course before the cleanser granita — light, floral, and Lao in spirit. Or on C6: a single lychee alongside the chiffon, its sweetness cutting through the matcha bitterness. Fresh only — canned lychee is too sweet and lacks fragrance.

Stuff with a mixture of whipped tofu (already made for C2) and lemongrass. Lightly batter and fry. Serve before C1 as a single-bite amuse that previews both the tofu course and the Lao herb flavor profile. Dramatic, seasonal, and the batter gives you a crunch that no other course has at that point in the menu.

Chilled watermelon cubes with fish sauce, lime, chili, and toasted rice powder is a classic Lao street snack. As a two-bite amuse before C1 it sets the tone for the whole menu instantly — sweet fruit, salt, acid, heat. As a C2 variation: replace or supplement tomatoes with thick watermelon slices on the whipped tofu. The combination is unexpected and works.